Changes

It has been a while since I have posted here. Many things have happened since. Unexpected things. The pandemic hit my sector, tourism, really hard. Active tourism in Sicily even harder. While hotels and restaurants could benefit from a slow return of mostly national guests over the summer months of 2020, this was not the case for active or cycling tourism because it is simply too hot. And when our season finally started in September, we were soon again closed down by another lockdown. 2021 brought more European travelers back, but it was not until 2022 that International tourism really came back. 

But the forced slow pace really made me think and ask myself, how things should continue for me. After long and difficult reflections and with a very heavy heart, I left a job I was really passionate about. I had helped to build up one of the first active tourism companies of Sicily, but I had also known for a long time that there was no future for me in that company. I was very hesitant and sad to leave behind what I had created. But it was time for a change and a necessary step. So I started a new adventure as a free lancer. And I had no idea how liberating that would feel and the great opportunities that would soon come up!

One of the things the pandemic has taught me was, how precious time off is. And priorities - people and relations are the most important thing, not work. 

And the absolutely best part of the pandemic was that we had time for bike trip along the West Coast of Sicily. When will we ever have the possibility to take off two weeks end of May, the most beautiful time of the year in Sicily, but which is usually our peaks season? So as soon as we were allowed to move within the region (Sicily that is), we left our worries behind (and oh, we had many!), packed our bikes and took the train to Palermo! 

Check out or "Corona Adventure" here -> From Palermo to Agrigento

Pantalica

Pantalica is one of my absolute favorite places in Sicily. It is a Nature Reserve and the Necropolis of Pantalica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

There are about 5.000 rock-cut chamber tombs dating from the 7th to the 13th centuries BC (late bronze age). 

Later, during the byzantine era, many of the tombs have been transformed into habitations and some into churches like San Nicolicchio and San Micidiario near the "sella di Filiporto", the former access point to the so-called byzantine village. Remains of frescoes are still visible in the churches.

There are several ways to visit Pantalica. This time we entered from entrance near the lovely village of Sortino.

Even in December there are flowers in bloom

friendly encounters

Early spring is the best time to visit Pantalica. Nature explodes in spring. There are colorful flowers everywhere and particularly in Pantalica you can find a vast variety of  wild orchids. Here are images from an earlier visit in spring (April). 

Orchis Italica - the "naked man"

the trail follows the former railway tracks

former railway station 

frescoes San Nicolicchio church

Vendicari - hike along the coast

Easy hike along the coast of the Wildlife Sanctuary of Vendicari. The shallow lakes are popular stop over for migration birds even though the pink flamingos in recent years have stayed all year long. So you can be quite sure to spot them during the winter months.

The Nature reserve also includes a "Tonnara", the ruins of a former tuna factory. One of the most important income sources in the past.

Along the hike you also pass by some beautiful beaches. The sea stays warm until late December, then it cools down. But even during the coldest months the water temperature never drops below 15°C. So you may dare a quick dip into the water...

Calamosche beach

Ruins of the "Tonnara"

Noto Antica - Cava Carosello - Fiume Asinaro

Noto Antica is the original location of the town until it was destroyed by the devastating earthquake of 1693. The city was finally abandoned and rebuilt about 14 km further down the hill, closer to the coast. You can see the ruins of the old churches, remains of the tower with the annexed prison (with graffiti from the prisoners), sanctuaries of the Greek period, tanneries of the Arab period and tombs of the late bronze age. There is an ancient trail that leads from the city down to the river Asinaro where you can see the caves used as tanneries. 

Impressive walls of the fortified city - Porta Montagna (mountain gate)

Cava Carosello

ancient trail from the city to the valley of the river Asinaro

Tombs of the late bronze age later transformed into housings and stables

Caves that have been used as tanneries during the Arab period

Tanneries of the Arab period

to the old mill and tanneries

Friendly company on our way back up

Winter hikes in Sicily

Winter in Sicily can be really mild. Sure, you can catch a week of pouring rain and the days are shorter. But most of the time weather is just wonderful, the sky is clear and the visibility is just incredible. You can see Mt. Etna from Siracusa and sometimes even Calabria on the mainland. So perfect weather to explore!

This winter I want to make the best of my free time, spend as much time outdoors as possible before the season starts and takes over the control of my time.

Here are some photographs of the hikes I did so far in the last weeks.

Plemmirio - Ortigia - Mt. Etna

Climiti mountains

Climiti mountains

Climiti mountains

My favourite rides 2019 - part 3

My personal vacation this year brought me to the Northern part of Cyprus. While the Greek part of Cyprus is well known for mountain- and road biking, there is not much cycling going in the Northern part, well at least not in November. Which is surprising, we loved cycling there. Beautiful roads with very few cars. Rolling countryside with quiet villages. We had great bikes which we had rented from a local bike rental in Famagusta which were great - Trek Hybrids, perfect for bike-touring.

Before we started cycling, we had a look around Famagusta. 

Lala Mustafa Pascha-Mosque, former Sant Nicolas-Cathedral

We 💗 MEZE!

View from our room to the Mosque - which guaranteed our 5AM wake up call

 Cycling day 1: Famagusta (Gazimağusa) - Salamis ruins - along the coast to Boğaz - through the countryside to Kumyalı. 

Last preparations before the start!

Headless statues at antique Salamis

Traffic jam

Where do we go?

Cycling day 2: Kumyalı - Dipkarpaz - Aghios Filion

Cycling day 3: Dipkarpaz - Yeni Erenköy - Bogaz

Cycling day 4: Boğaz - Famagusta (Gazimağusa)

Sunrise in Boğaz 

Saint Mamas - protector of accountants and tax evadors!